The Kintzel dress cutting system, 1896 by Kintzel A. G

Author:Kintzel, A. G. [from old catalog]
Language: eng
Format: epub, pdf
Tags: Dressmaking
Publisher: [Philadelphia]
Published: 1896-03-25T05:00:00+00:00

The under arm is drafted the same as tor plain waist except the y^ inch to be added from side body at C. Then C should be raised about ^ inch above bust line to meet the J^ inch from S to bust line on side body which will raise to ^^ when sewed together. The side body looks shorter but this is because it slants more when drafted with the back. Be sure to always match at the waist as you can see by these different drafts that the seam slides up and down and gets longer or shorter, as it slants from right angle with the waist line. Many make this mistake by matching on the bust line.

A Seamless Back.

A seamless back is only drafted down to the waist with a drop in the back to a point from under arm piece. To draft the seamless back look at Fig. 4, you will see that the curve C F E is not needed, but you must dot C F and E. So that you can add your side body to the back. Add to left of F what your side body would be on bust line and dot. Add to left of E on waist line what your side body should be on waist line and dot. Then curve with chart from dot to dot making the curved line the same length as L to S on side body, dot at S for arm hole curve which may come a little above or a little below bust line. If you get this curve too long it will not fit your under arm piece. Use chart (arm hole curve) from top of this curved line to C on the back. Cut on fold of goods double and match at the waist as you are not sure of a match at arm hole. This waist may be slashed or pointed below the waist line.

The Corset Darts

First.—The Corset cut dart is drafted by the following rule, 1-16 of whole bust measure or ^ of bust measure on front. Thus if 36-inch bust i^ will be 9 inches for front, % front will be 2"^ for distance of front dart-top from front line. Second dart will be '4 bust on front plus i inch. This will be y^ front^4i^ inches plus I inches J4 inches from front line at top of second dart.

Second.—This will give i){ inches for distance from front line to first dart at the waist and \% inches between the darts. The front dart should be i inch wide at hip line.

Third.—If 32 is the bust ^ will be 8 inches, 14; of front will be 2 inches, the distance for front dart-top from front line, and i^ bust front=4 + 1=5, the distance for second dart.

This wiil give i inch for distance from front line to first dart at the waist and I inch for distance between darts at the waist.

Fourth.—The second dart should not be less than i inch wide at the hip line.

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